While doing a gig this past weekend I noticed that the voltage in the building was dipping to dangerous levels. I shut off the lights and that helped some, but I was still riding in the cautionary levels. Do you guys have any suggestions for this problem? What can low voltage do to your equipment? I would hate to stop a gig mid-way through because of the threat of low-voltage to the equipment, but you guys know a whole lot better than I do that the stuff doesn't come cheap. Do you even accept a gig if the building isn't pushing 120? I'm almost positive this building had only 110. Thanks for any info guys. - Danjah

Yo Rox, Shoooooooosh



I do it because I love it, but I do expect to be paid for what I love. I would never do a gig for free. I do agree for what you said though, I've seen more speakers pop due to not enough power than too much.

One thing most people don't take into consideration ... 110V isn't "low voltage". The voltage for North America is 110-120 and most electrical equiplent can handle that range. However, if you drop below 110 or go above 120, you could find your gear doing some weird things, including stopping playback even though the player is still powered.

"You doing some remodelling, you gonna go 220?

Ya 220...221.. whatever it takes."







"Honey if you call and I'm not here, I'm either at the gym or the Gun Club"

Yeah, if the voltage is sagging below 107, then something is seriously wrong and you should stop playing. For the voltage to drop significantly, the circuit would have to be seriously overloaded.

I was gonna say, as long as it's above 105-107 you're okay. 117 is IDEAL - 120 is running a bit high. As long as you're running a decent power regulator, it can handle that and will boost the voltage up to about 117 or so and you'll be okay. Brownouts are worse for your gear than spikes are - not enough voltage means things start to act VERY strange, and you're likely to blow a power supply since it's trying to get things sorted out to a proper voltage. But if you run a good conditioner then you'll be okay - you'll pay a lot for said conditioner, but it'll be worth it in potential repairs to your gear..

-r-

I use a Furman (don't know if that is allowed, please delete if it isn't) power strip that shows the voltage levels. This isn't the same as a voltage regulator or booster is it? I noticed that my displays were dimming and this is what alarmed me. Thank God I was fortunate and did not damage anything. If the deal I have from Furman isn't what I need please let me know of something good to help maintain and regulate voltage. Thanks again guys. You all continue to be most helpful. - Danjah

"Ya 220...221.. whatever it takes." - M. Keaton (Mr. Mom)

"Honey if you call and I'm not, I'm either at the gym or the Gun Club" - M. Keaton (Mr. Mom)



Yo Jay,



Are you in the middle of a Michael K film fest? Do not forget to watch his greatest character ever, Billy Blazjowski!



Chuck Lumley - "women are having sex with strange men and we are making money from that."

Billy Blazjowski - "I know, ain't America great."

Danjah, which displays were dimming? Lights dimming on the bass hits is more normal than you might think. Not good, but a little normal. Try sticking your amp on a different circuit.

-r-

That's pretty major, yeah.

Furman makes some outright voltage regulator/power conditioners - check them out.

A cheap and temporary solution is to put a UPS on your gear - BUT ONLY ON YOUR BOOTH GEAR. IE, don't put amps and lights on it, but your cd decks, mixer, computer, and whatever other gear you have can go on a simple 1500W (probably even as little as 500W, but that's pushingit) UPS. It's a full voltage regulator/conditioner, it's just not as expensive as a furman.

-r-

I knew you'd hit that. Count on Rox to get any and all Movie and TV quotes,; the man is unstoppable!!!!

"Note to self, see about putting Mayonaise in the can with the Tuna Fish; wait even better, Feed the mayonaise to the Tuna Fish"...

Night Shift is still one of the funniest movies out there.....

Your setup would look like this: wall->ups->furman->gear, keeping in mind that a UPS DOES NOT have NEARLY enough wattage to handle an amplifier or lights. So ONLY your DJ gear, ie CD players, mixer, turntables, lighting controller, should be plugged into the ups/furman. The rest, while still potentially on the same circuit, needs to go straight to the wall.

Again, it's a temporary solution. What you REALLY need to look into is getting a furman (or other manufacturer, but furman is one of the most commonly known) voltage REGULATOR, which is a conditioner as well, for example their series II AR 15. That'll give you the most constant voltage you could be looking for. That, coupled with a UPS, and you'd have an unstoppable rig!

-r-

Steele, thanks a lot. I am pricing the AR15 unit now. Damn that thing is expensive! I wish I could return the PL-Plus and apply it to the purchase of the AR15, but it's okay. I'm fortunate to have access to this site and be able to chop it up with you guys and receive valuable info.

Thanks for the info on the contract Rox. I've been seriously considering a contract, but didn't know what I should contract. As I am finding my way through this whole DJ'ing thing I am learning. I don't want something so contractual that it would turn away prospective business, but I do want to do what's in my best interest as well as the customer while maintaining good service.

In the meantime, I will purchase a line voltage tester from RadioShack and make sure the voltage is good at the venue before plugging in my equipment. Although voltage can change, I feel this way I can at least make a better decision about the available power.

Thanks again guys. - Danjah

A little late on the thread (hey, I've been busy, whattheheck), but I ALWAYS keep a 750w TrippLite power inverter in my truck. It runs my EON system without wincing. For my more major events, I'll even through the superquiet Honda generator in with the load-up. If the power ever goes out for any reason, *YOU* are in control of the crowd. If I'm not spinning in a club, I even use an Anchor Audio all-in-one job for a monitor, that way if need be, I can have it run off the internal battery with the flick of a switch and a swap of the cord.